Posts Tagged ‘Operating Digital’
JT-65 signal reports
On Sunday I decided to move from CW to digital and see how my small antenna setup preformed using JT-65. I first made sure the software and the rig would "talk" with each other. The software I use is WSJT-X by K1JT along with Win4K3 suite for rig control. I find K1JT's software very easy to use, it has been some time since I used it but I had no issues getting it up and running. I then went to PSK reporter to see which bands were preforming well. I ended up choosing 20m, I did bounce around to 15m, 17m and 30m but ended up staying with 20m. My power was set to 5 watts and the antenna was my trusty MFJ 1788 loop antenna. I am in a condo on the 6th floor which seems to be a good hight for the antenna. The only issue I have is other tall condo's to the left and right of me and one right dead centre. I had called CQ for about 4 hours off and on and the PSK reporter did show my signal was getting out. I was pleased with the results as with CW the Reverse Beacon network at the best of times only gave me between 3 to 10 hits that were all state side and fairly local to me as well. I was very pleased to be heard in the Netherlands and European Russia! Below is a screen shot of the results using PSK reporter.
I also wanted to mention that on Saturday I tried to run WSPR and I say "tried" as I had ZERO spots reported and that was after having it up and running for several hours. I was not sure if something was wrong with my setup. I again was using WSJT's program and it showed no issues. My power was set to 1 watt and I ended up raising that to 4 watts but still no one heard my signal. I was pleased to see a decent response to my JT-65 effort and I then knew my signal was getting out.
I also wanted to mention that on Saturday I tried to run WSPR and I say "tried" as I had ZERO spots reported and that was after having it up and running for several hours. I was not sure if something was wrong with my setup. I again was using WSJT's program and it showed no issues. My power was set to 1 watt and I ended up raising that to 4 watts but still no one heard my signal. I was pleased to see a decent response to my JT-65 effort and I then knew my signal was getting out.
Remembering things is the hard part……
My work station and my assistant...sleeping. |
Some of my memory games are:
1. Removing cables from a piece of equipment thinking I have a photographic memory....only when it comes time to re-connect the picture is blank!
2. Running digital software and an issue comes up.....I know its happened before and it's a easy fix if I could only remember the dam fix!
3. When software is not playing well together and it's a com port issue....I will be darned if I can remember what com port goes where!
4. A real good one for me is some of my software share the same virtual comports it's always a brain teaser to figure out what software can and can't work together!
It was now time to address the above issues the Easter weekend was here and I have some extra time on my hands.
Murphy strikes |
Starting the labeling |
Ah yes the 3rd issue....the comport circus! I have found that software does have a mind of it's own and I have had on occasion comports get changed around. So now I have a master list of what comport is for what software.
Finally number 4.......for rig control software I use Win4k3suite and you have available up to 4 virtual comports. Thats fine if you only have 4 programs you would like to use along side Win4k3suite. As for me I have a few more than just 4 programs mind you Im not using them all at the same time but you have to be aware to not run 2 programs that share the same virtual comports.....or.....things will just not work. To help me out I made a list of what programs and their virtual comports.
One step closer to being a ham techie!
Now that I can use one Signalink USB unit on either my Elecraft K3 or KX3 I thought it was now due time to investigate operating my rigs remote from my laptop using my router. I have read many ham who do this so it’s not anything new…BUT….for me this is cutting edge and can be “kinda fun” to get it up and running. I can across software called Teamviewerwhich allows you to remotely access your PC from another PC. Once logged on and a connection is made you have (on your remote PC) a mirror image of your home PC. You have the same control over your home PC as if you were sitting in front of it. The software allows you to access your Windows PC via a Mac and so on. This Windows/Mac cross over was great for me as my home PC is Windows and the laptop is a Macbook Pro. I set out to download and install the software on my Windows PC. It went very smooth and error free, I then installed it on my Macbook pro laptop and all went well until I started the program. The program just
would not start it just got hung up and I had to do a force shutdown. I tried a few things but just could not get the program to run. I then installed it on my wife’s Macbook pro laptop and it operated withouta hitch! The only thing I can figure is my Macbook is a bit older and may not be up to the task. I was on the internet to see if I could see what the issue might be but could not find anything. I am going to email the company and see what their input is. On the weekend I was not interested in troubleshooting or emailing for an answer I just wanted to get the program up and running. With the program installed on both PC’s and it was time to make the link. It is very straight forward to do, you open the program on each PC. You are given a 9 digit ID number on each PC and since I want to use my laptop to control my main PC on my laptop I enter the 9 digit ID number from my main PC and press “connect to partner”. I then enter a password (setup during program install) and in no time I have full control ofMy remote PC operation |
PART2: Mod for Signalink USB so it can be used with 2 radios
The finished product |
Below are some of the options I came up with to see if I could get my Signalink USB to work with two different radios……
- Rewire the internals of the unit each time I switch radios, this was just not an option as it is time consuming and the unit I believe over time would not stand up to these continual wiring change outs.
- To purchase Signalinks plug and play boards, you simply plug in the board for the K3 or the KX3. This is for sure an option but again I was wanting to not take the Signalink apart each time I wanted to change out the radios.
- There is also the option of purchasing a second Singalink USB unit but this is very pricey for what I wanted to do.
- Try to figure out if it is possible to set up the internals so with the simple flip of a switch mounted on the outside of the unit I could change the internal wiring to make either the K3 or KX3 work. This was the option I decided to work on.
internal mod wiring
So settling on option 4 as my choice I set you to see if and how it could be done. I did an internet search because the way I look at it is why try to reinvent the wheel if someone else already has! My results turned up only 2 that I could find were the unit was being used for 2 radios. Both did not seem to suit my need. The first seemed the operator configured a device that allowed the use of two of the same radiosbut at different locations. Each radio could be controlled by the same Singnalink unit. The other site I found this op used 3 RJ45jacks in a separate box to do just what I wanted to do…BUT…..I was looking to not have yet another “box” I was ultimately looking for an “all in one” solution. I ended up drawing out many possible circuit diagrams and at one point almost finished wiring what I thought was the "solution". I then realized it just was not
going to work and had to hit the drawing board again. I finally came up with a workable plan that involved drilling only two holes in the back panel of the Signalink. I had to install a ON-NONE-ON mini switch and a hole for an RJ45 pigtail to be placed. Some of the things I ended up learning as I went along were:
One final check before assembly |
1. A long pigtail had to be made on the connections between new rear panel switch and the 8 pin DIN wiring. This allow the removal (if needed) of the circuit board.
2. I had to solder the wires into the 8 pin DIN they just did not stay in place and with the extended pigtail there was lots of movement in the wires as the covers were put in place, I didn't want any wires coming loose once assembled.
3. I ended up removing the pigtail and adding a rubber grommet as the plastic housing seem to have a sharp edge to it.
Below is my diagram for the mod, the "K3 Signalink RJ45" is the internal jack on the unit. The wiring shown in my diagram for this RJ45 is the wiring that is on the circuit board and does not need to be added. Also on the 8 pin DIN there are jumpers between Spk-1, GND-5 and GND-6. I have tried the unit both with my K3 and KX3 and it works great. The final thing I have to do is just label the rear switch.
3. I ended up removing the pigtail and adding a rubber grommet as the plastic housing seem to have a sharp edge to it.
Below is my diagram for the mod, the "K3 Signalink RJ45" is the internal jack on the unit. The wiring shown in my diagram for this RJ45 is the wiring that is on the circuit board and does not need to be added. Also on the 8 pin DIN there are jumpers between Spk-1, GND-5 and GND-6. I have tried the unit both with my K3 and KX3 and it works great. The final thing I have to do is just label the rear switch.
PART1: Mod for Signalink USB so it can be used with 2 radios
Rear view before the mod's |
Soldered jumpers |
After the Hakko 808 is done |
Windows and Mac getting along!
Win7 working smoothly on my Mac bookpro |
Multi tasking at the rig.
Reading blogs and operating JT65-HF |